10/25/14 — New eatery opening Monday

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New eatery opening Monday

By Ethan Smith
Published in News on October 25, 2014 10:44 PM

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News-Argus/CASEY MOZINGO

Ed Cogdell and executive chef, Chelsi Hogue, sit at the bar of their new restaurant, Ed's Southern Food and Spirits in downtown Goldsboro. The eatery will open its doors officially Monday.

Three generations ago, his grandfather made his living on Center Street. His father did the same.

Now, Ed Cogdell will follow in his father and grandfather's footsteps when his restaurant, Ed's Southern Food and Spirits, opens Monday at 105 N. Center St.

"It's been a lifelong goal," Cogdell said. "It's something I've been doing since I was 18 to support myself, and it's all about being able to put a smile on people's faces when they come here."

Behind the restaurant's food is executive chef Chelsi Hogue, a Goldsboro native who has come home after a chef's career that led her away from home. And she has brought some serious chef's talent back with her.

Ms. Hogue has worked at multiple Michelin Star restaurants in Chicago such as Blackbird and Boca. When she met Cogdell while he was managing The Flying Shamrock in Goldsboro, she was at a point in her career when she was nearly ready to throw in the towel -- but her passion for being a chef had never died.

Cogdell said he had heard of Ms. Hogue's talent from various people who would come into The Flying Shamrock, and knew how good she was.

One month after meeting Cogdell, Ms. Hogue saw an anonymous ad on Craigslist for a chef position at a new restaurant opening downtown. That restaurant was Ed's, and when she saw it, she knew she could not turn her back on her passion any longer.

"I feel like I've been ready to be in this role (as a head chef) for quite some time," Ms. Hogue said. "We're going to make this rock or we're going to die trying."

She calls her style "nuevo-southern fusion" -- food with southern roots that has global influences peppered throughout the dishes.

"I might make barbecue pork, but it will be barbecue pork wonton," Ms. Hogue said.

Cogdell said the restaurant believes in a farm to table concept, supporting local growers and fishermen, and that everything is made in house from scratch.

Despite Streetscape happening directly in front of the restaurant as it is trying to open, Cogdell and Ms. Hogue are not deterred.

"You've got a warzone, a construction disaster happening right out front, but the public response to this has been unbelievable," Cogdell said.

He said he has the utmost respect for his former employers at The Flying Shamrock. They took a chance opening their business when there was not much company downtown.

Now, he said, the future looks bright.

"I think we're right on the cusp of something awesome happening down here," he said.

With the leg work of getting the restaurant ready to open behind them, Cogdell and Ms. Hogue are eager for their opening on Monday.

"The days and days of worry and stress and back breaking work are over, and now we're just excited," Cogdell said. "We know what we signed up for, and it's time for us to take our 20 years of combined experience and have fun with it."